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Port Howe and Cameron Beach

 

Excerpted in part from an essay by 14-year old Logan A. Cameron of Port Howe.  It was published in the Oxford Journal on March 29, 1912.

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Port Howe is situated 26 miles east of Amherst and 3 miles west of Pugwash light.  It is bounded on the east by Pugwash Basin, on the north by Northumberland Strait, on the west by Carrington and Linden, and on the south by River Philip.  It was, until the 1830's, dense forest inhabited by Micmaq. 

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When the first settlers landed they found about 17 Indian camps and about two acres of land cleared and planted with potatoes.  The Indians planted them with a stone hoe.  Among the prominent Indians was Francis Sock, who was appointed Chief at the death of Louis, from whom the name Louis Head was taken.  He is buried on that point and his grave is marked by a large free stone.  Among other principal Indians was Doctor Paul, Joe Snake, Mickel Cane and Joe Nockwood. They got their food principally by hunting and fishing.

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At what is now called Cameron Beach, it is reported that the first house was built in 1786.  It may have belonged to a man named Hyslop who was of French descent.  He raised his family among the Indians and lived at the mouth of the bay. 

 

By 1822, when John Evans came from Wales and landed at the Point, Louis Jones and family were already there. From Sand Point running north was held as an Indian reserve until the year 1833 when the land was taken as a crown grant by Lewis Jones.  The point was then divided off into grants of 200 acres.  Two Welshmen bought land: Louis Lewis bought 200 acres in 1837 along with his wife, stepson and stepdaughter by the name of Reese who came from Wales and Evan Evans bought 400 acres which extended to the Post Road. The first path came in from Linden across Mr. Rogers’ field and across the creek above the tideway bridge.  It extended down the marsh to the Rhude place and the Lewis’s and Evans’ lived along it.  

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Other first settlers were Owen Evans of Wales who came in about 1836 and built a log house.  The next settlers were John Cameron, his wife, seven sons and two daughters.  They came from Prince Edward Island in 1836 in a small open boat to Louis Head in the mouth of River Philip and erected a small log house near where A. J. Cameron’s lobster factory later stood. 

William Elliott with his wife and large family came from England in the year 1854 and built a frame house.  In 1857, Norman McLeod, wife and family came over from Cape Breton and moved into a home owned by Owen Evans.  At about this time, Owen Evans erected a water mill which was operated for a number of years.  Also that year, John Worth and wife and family came from Cape Breton and settled on the bank at Toney Bay.  In 1858, there was a huge migration from Pictou consisting of McDonalds, Camerons and McLeans.  

The first gospel service was held in the house of John Worth and was conducted by the Rev. Mr. Pickel.  

There were no roads and the only way of traveling was on trails through the woods or by boat or canoe.  The first route for travel between Amherst and Pugwash ran from Jones’ beach where they swam horses across to Burgman’s Cove and the men went across in row boats.  Later that road changed and there was a ferry slip to Hazen McNutt’s Point from Hills’ residence.  In 1856, a wooden bridge was built.  After these improvements, there was a large immigration each year and the population increased rapidly.  The forest was rapidly cut down, buildings erected and roads constantly being made until Port Howe was eight and one-half miles of road and a population of 178.

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There was no mail nor post office, the nearest being at George Bergman’s in Pugwash.  A post office was established in 1872 and managed by C. W. Elliott, the first mail driver being Keiver Hunter. 

The first school was held in Donald Cameron’s home, and taught by Daniel Campbell of Pictou.  Before that, children had to cross the river to a school house that stood on the line between Claude King’s and the Kennedy place.   Later a school was held in the house of Samuel Elliott and taught by Miss Lucy Horton of Pugwash.  In 1869, a schoolhouse was built and opened by Samuel Angus, son of William Angus of Linden.  Preaching for 3 denominations and a Temperance Lodge were all held in this building.  The schoolhouse later became a blacksmith shop operated by Daniel Cameron and son Charles.
 

At that time, Port Howe was called Toney Bay after an Indian doctor by the name of Toney who was walking from Shediac to Pictou in a snow storm on Dunbar’s marsh.  He perished in the woods at the edge of the Bay and was found the following spring by a search party.  They body was taken by canoe to Shediac for burial.In 1883, the name of Toney Bay was changed to Port Howe in honour of the late Joseph Howe.

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The Methodist church was erected in 1885 at an elm tree in Mr. Wood’s field and opened by Rev. Mr. Morton.  The Presbyterian church was built in 1897 and opened by the Rev. Mr. McIntosh and Rev. Mr. Darragh.  The first industry in Toney Bay was shipbuilding, carried on by Captain John Muckler of Ireland who built five sailing vessels from 1875 to 1881.  His ship yard was between the United Church and the present bridge.  He and his wife Ellen had four sons, all of whom were sea captains.  Their mother insisted on going with each one on his first voyage in command.  She had a lead coffin constructed especially for her which she took on every voyage in case she had to be buried at sea.

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About 1892, A. J. Cameron opened a lobster factory on the Lerry Head Point.  It proved a great resort for summer people where as many as forty carriages gathered in one day.  The sports consisted of bathing, motor riding and foot racing on the sand beach.

In 1912, a new school house was erected and opened by Miss Olivia Forshner.  By 1912, it was reported that Port Howe had two fine churches, a gospel hall, a public hall, a post office, a school house with 49 pupils under the teaching of Emily W. Cameron of Advocate and two up-to-date blacksmith shops.
 

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PUGWASH

 

70 Water Street: The Clarke House

 

The Clarke House is on lot 103 of the original Black plan of Pugwash. A deed, signed by John and Sarah Black, shows that the land was purchased on Jan. 19, 1847 for 30 pounds by Dr. Joseph Clarke, a physician. The lot was on Water Street starting at Victoria Street and running east 85 feet and south 85 feet.

 

Joseph built a house which he named Napoleon’s Cottage. It also served as his office and his dispensary. In 1854, he also bought lot 106 for 80 pounds. That was on the corner of Water and Durham Street. He sold that land in 1873 to William Henry Brown for $364.00, and it eventually became the war memorial.

 

Dr. Joseph Clarke was born in Kilkenny, Ireland. He emigrated as a young physician and dentist to Nova Scotia. This was unusual as many Irish immigrants were coming to the area, but few were educated. He married Olivia King (Mar. 30, 1827 – Feb. 28, 1910), daughter of Lavina Pineo and Oliver King in about 1850. In 1853, their first child, Cyrilla Clarke (1853 – 1938) was born. She was followed three years later by brother William (1856 – 1882). Child 3, Joseph Holmes Clarke (1860 – 1938) followed soon after being born in 1860. Their newly built house was on Water Street, and Joseph was a successful physician with three children. He practiced out of his house, and it served also as his dispensary.

 

In the 1861 census, he was in a household of 8 in Pugwash, 5 males and 3 females. That same year, Dr. Joseph had a schooner built in Wallace, The Janet. Unfortunately, it sank in the Gulf of St. Lawrence in 1862. In the 1864 Hutchinson’s Directory, Joseph is listed as a physician and dentist. In the 1871 census, the family of 5 are in Pugwash and living with them are Hiram and Clara Huston. Hiram was an engineer at a steam mill. Servant Maggie Satoris is with them as was a sailor, Joseph Akerly.

 

Daughter Cyrilla married Edgar Augustus Elliott in 1874 in Amherst. Dr. Joseph Clarke was obviously a man of some influence and service to the village. On August 27, 1857, he was appointed coroner for Cumberland County. He held other offices for the village. In 1858, he was an assessor. In 1858 - 60, he served as commissioner of streets. In 1870 and 1875, he was one of three school trustees. In 1871, he was an overseer of the poor. In 1872, he and Dr. Creed participated in the examination of Mr. Macaulay’s 103 students. In 1877, he had a meeting with the premier to change the route of the Northern Light which went to PEI through Pictou. He successfully pressed for it to be changed to going from Pugwash to Victoria instead.

 

The Christian Messenger reported that on Jan. 25, 1880, Dr. Clarke, just before retiring, went into his surgery to get some medicine and made a mistake, taking carbolic acid instead of the preparation he intended to take. Before he had drank the whole dose he discovered his mistake and told his wife that he was poisoned and had only a few minutes to live. Dr. Dakin, who lived just across the street, was at once called and used all possible remedies, but Clarke died in half an hour. The Miramichi Advance added that he had not been well for some time. Dr. Creed and Dr. Mackintosh also arrived but Dr. Clarke was speechless and could only wave his hand to indicate that there was nothing to be done. Reports of his death showed that the deceased had been in practice for a great number of years and had been particularly successful in the treatment of diphtheria. He practiced out of his house, but he also was said to travel into the countryside regardless of weather. He was buried in Palmerston Cemetery.

 

The appraisal of Joseph’s estate showed 3 pieces of real estate – 17 acres of land on Irishtown Road, 1 lot in Pugwash of 80 feet x 80 feet with a house and a barn, and a farm of 150 acres where Thomas Sarson was residing. The lot in Pugwash and the furniture was deeded to Augusta and Cyrilla including the portion owned by son Joseph Holmes. JH relinquished all right to his portion of that land and deeded it to his mother and sister. By the 1881 census, Olivia was a widow. She was living with her daughter Cyrilla Elliott, also a widow, sons William and Joseph Clarke and Cyrilla’s children Daisy and Pearl. In 1891, she was still in her house in Pugwash with Cyrilla, Daisy and Edmund as well as lodgers John Seaman and William Morgan.

 

Olivia was burned out twice. On July 25, 1898, a raging fire struck the Durham Street area. Winds fanned the flames and without a fire department, eighteen families were rendered homeless. Olivia’s house was completely lost along with 17 other properties, including the house and barn of her son, Joseph Holmes Clarke. In 1899, Olivia was rebuilding on the site of her former residence at 70 Water Street. In 1899, Joseph’s daughter Cyrilla married again to Clarence Edward Reed a sea captain in Pictou. Cyrilla’s son Edmund Pearl married Hattie M. Hay that same year in Truro. Her daughter Daisy Elliott married Stephen Percival Wilson also in 1899. Joseph’s brother William had died without having children. In the 1901 census, Olivia is living alone. On Sept. 10, 1901, the Clark house was again damaged by fire resulting from thieves blowing up the safe in Brown’s store which was adjacent. The house caught on fire several times, but was saved by the people. The town had no fire department. Finally, on Nov. 11, 1901, was a large fire that almost wiped out the town of Pugwash. Olivia’s damage was recorded as $1500 for loss of house and furniture. As the winter coal and vegetables had been laid in, the damage was even greater.

 

Olivia had to build again. By January of 1902, they had decided to also build a meat market on the property. This structure was right next door to the house she was also building, the house that is there now. Olivia died on Feb. 28, 1910, of softening of the brain and exhaustion. She is buried in Willow Grove Cemetery. She was C of E. This is interesting because son, Joseph Holmes Clarke and family were RC.

 

In 1911, according to the census, Cyrilla and Edward Reed were living alone in the house.

 

Cyrilla’s brother, Joseph Holmes Clarke (April 8, 1860 – Jan. 13, 1938) was initially employed as a bookkeeper and auctioneer. In 1879, Joseph was a surveyor of lumber. He married Agustia (Gussie) Adilea Walsh (Mar. 17, 1866 -   ) on July 16, 1886 in Pugwash. In 1898, when he was a general merchant, they lived in Pugwash. Their house was burned in 1898, with the loss being assessed at $800 and insurance at $300. In 1901 they were in Pugwash with children Adilea, Joseph and Alexander. They were Roman Catholic. He was a general merchant and also a surveyor of lumber. In 1915, a poem of his was published in Moncton called “Home is home where ere it be”. In 1920 he was a fence viewer. This was a municipal post. He became very active in municipal government, receiving appointment as stripendiary magistrate at Pugwash, acting periodically as returning officer for municipal elections and even running as an unsuccessful Liberal candidate for a seat on County Council in 1922. In 1927, he was a Customs Collector. He also worked for a time as a conductor for the railway out west and as the station agent and telegrapher in Pugwash Junction.

 

In 1911, Joseph, Gussie and the children are all in Pugwash. In 1916, Joseph Holmes is living in a hotel in Cochrane, Ontario working for the railway according to his son’s attestation papers. In 1921 Joseph and Gussie are in Pugwash with son Joseph V. In 1931, they are in Pugwash with Daisy Wilson who is listed as their boarder. She was Joseph’s niece. Joseph was a judge by then. Joseph Holmes and Gussie’s eldest daughter, Adilea Mary Clarke (May 6, 1888 - ) became a teacher. When she retired, she moved into the Clarke house. After Adelia died, the house was empty for some time.

 

JH’s second child, Joseph Valentine Clarke (Feb. 14, 1890 [1901 Census] - ) joined up for WWI in March 1916 from Winnipeg where he was a switchman. He was hit by a bullet on Vimy Ridge, and his right arm was amputated. After his return to Canada, he married Jean Elizabeth Thompson on Sept. 14, 1921. She died, and he married Christina Williams in May of 1928. Chrissy renovated the family house and she and Joseph moved in.

 

He was an insurance agent for 40 years and sold his business in 1969. Jophie and Chrissie’s second child was Joseph. Another child was Marion Clarke who won a beauty contest and from that was offered a contract by the CBC in 1953 to work in television. She gave up her career as host of The Saturday Show in 1957 to marry Darroch MacGillivray. Their third child, Alexander Bernard Clarke (Jan. 31, 1892 – June 13, 1953) also enlisted in 1914. At Ypres, he was wounded and taken prisoner. His leg was amputated. He was returned to Canada in 1917. He married Marie Clarisse Cantin in Calgary and moved to BC. Joseph and Chrissy’s fourth child was James David Clarke. They had grandson Darren Clarke who wrote an article about spending his summers in Pugwash in the Clarke house. According to him, Joseph V. smoked and loved pipes and had a room in his house dedicated to pipes. When Joseph and Chrissie became older, they moved to a smaller house down Water Street. 

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Darren Clarke was a grandson of Joseph and Gussy and son of James David Clarke..  He wrote excerpts from reminiscences for “The Left Field Lark” June 18, 2018 Travel section.

 

Sitting on my grandparents’ sun porch in a rain storm – Pugwash is a tiny little town of 784 that sits on the Northumberland Strait at the mouth of the Pugwash River. My grandparents’ house sat on the corner of the town’s main streets, Water Street and Victoria Street. The sunporch overlooked Water Street and wrapped around half of the length of the house that ran parallel to Victoria. The windows were weathered, vaguely distorting the outside world. If you were sitting in the front of the house, you could look across Water Street and see Pugwash bay, its clay-coloured beach just steps away.

 

Memories of visiting my Grandfather - . . . lounging in lawn chairs beneath the tree in my grandparents’ back yard listening to my grandfather regale me, indeed educate me, with war stories and tales of his time as a magistrate – good decisions, bad decisions, funny decisions, in his endeavour to provide justice, the people he met, the ones that surprised him, the ones he respected, the ones that let him down and beyond that his stories of long lost World War I battlefields, former boxing champions (Tommy Burns) and so much more.

 

My grandfather’s pipes – My dad’s dad had tons of smoking pipes varying from simple corn cob pipes to straightforward wood pipes with plastic ends to crazy cool wood ones, some with improbably intricate metal ends. We loved them. He had an entire room dedicated to his pipes.

 

On the porch -The guns I remember really, rifles which appeared to be circa World War One. There was tons of random stuff there: almanacs, nicnacks, magazines, pins, old metal lighters that didn’t work.

 

The village – memories of collecting bottle caps out front of the same corner store in Pugwash where you bought the little packages of seaweed to eat.

 

70 Water Street was bought by John Caraberis and Bonnie Wood in 1996. They rented it to Dale O’Hara and Erin Horton who turned it into a restaurant known as Walden Pond, named after the book which Dale had been reading. It was a successful business. The current kitchen was the kitchen of the restaurant; there were two rooms which are now the dining room and living room and an outdoor deck on the Victoria Street side. Reception was from Water Street and Dale and Erin lived upstairs. It was next sold to Peter Sietel who used it as a storehouse for antiques.

 

In 2025, it was again bought by John Caraberis and Bonnie Wood. They renovated: municipal water was connected, the foundation was fixed, there was some new wiring and plastering, new heat pumps and a new roof were installed, the sun porch was repaired and a new entrance from Victoria Street was built. , and it is currently being occupied by a family who are new to the area.

 

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