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Northport

Linda Letcher wrote 3 extensive volumes on the village of Northport called Northport Then and Now.  Most of the following article is taken from these books.

 

Northport is a community on the Shinimicas River and more specifically at the mouth of that river.  The area was traditionally home to many aboriginals – there was a camp on the north side and the river provided a major means of transport.  During the 1840’s, there was a reserve on the Shinimicas River near Mount Pleasant Road, probably near where the provincial park is now situated.

At this time, Northport was called Shinimicas River.

The first land grants were to two brothers, Jeremiah and William George Brownell who together secured 2000 acres at the mouth of the Shinimicas River in around 1810.  English-born they came to the area after first settling in Jolicure, NB.  William George and his wife Anne Davis of NB had 10 children.

Other settlers followed in the 1820’s: John Cooper, Archibald Dickey and James Brander.  John Cooper came from Huntley Scotland and had no children.  However, Scottish born James Brander was his nephew and was attracted to the area because of him.  He and Lily Brander had 14 children.  Archibald Dickey had 14 children with his two wives.  These families farmed and did whatever else they could – James Brander also made ladders which he sold in PEI. 

The land was fertile and rolling – not too rocky – and easy to farm.  There was enough lumber to build with and export, abundant fish to add to their diet and an easy place for ships to load lumber and unload supplies. 

More settlers from the British Isles followed and Northport grew.  In 1897 an Orange Lodge was formed.

By 1900, the village was at its peak.  The population was 320, and there was a sidewalk running all the way from the bridge to the school.  Initially, transportation across the river was by ferry.  The first bridge was constructed in the late 1800’s and was a lift bridge to allow schooners into the river.  The second was a swing bridge and very popular with the children who loved to ride on it.  After the main wharf was built, there was no need for a lift bridge and in 1934, a new fixed bridge was built.

There was a community hall for gatherings and before 1904, it was used by the Covenanters for religious worship. There was a tanner, James Wilson Brownell, a seamstress, Belle Moore and  Gertrude Brander had a millinery shop.  Industry was starting: the three co-partners of the Air Motor Washing Machine Company were John Campbell, Hiram Brownell, and James W. Brownell.

Medically the town was looked after.  By 1883 Dr. James Gibson Campbell was working in Northport and had also opened a pharmacy.   E.P. Atkinson took over from him in 1902 and stayed until 1922.  W. M. Patton was the undertaker.

In WWI, 13 enlisted:  Burton Allen, Percy and Edgar Anderson; Walter Brander; William Pipes; Fred Bryson; Hance Olsen; Carl Baxter; Marshall, Floyd and Alva Brownell, Elmore Bryson and Wendell Davis.  In 1921, the village had 280 people only so this represents a high proportion of the young men. None died while overseas.

By 1920, the village had 230 inhabitants of which 96 were students in the 2-room schoolhouse. 

It was a busy town with 7 smokehouses – the herring were so plentiful that boats couldn’t hold all the catch, and they were scooped with large shovels into barrels.  There was the Burns Hotel owned and operated by James and Jane Burns.  Billy Boy Brander ran the barber shop – another centre of town life. 

 

Farmers were starting to branch out; there were many fox farms in the area.  The biggest fox and mink ranch in the 20’s and 30’s was that of Robson Jodrey.  Premier Joey Smallwood came to visit his operation.

As the decade goes on, there is a lessening in industry and by the end of the 1920’s an end to growth. The population declined; however, there were still enough people to have a competitive baseball team and a hockey team called the Northport Cubs.

The first car was owned by Harold Jodrey who took the mail route from Northport to Pugwash.  In 1936, Dr. Atkinson got a car.  They all gassed up at George Allen’s hand pumped gas tank. 

Electricity came to Northport in 1948.  The telephone switchboard operator was Hazel Brander.

School

The first school was built in the 1860’s on the south side of the village on Brownell property.  It was a log cabin with a few windows and one door, and it lasted for about 15 years.  In 1880, a new school was built across the road, and the old one became a woodshed.  It was fairly typical for its day with hardwood floors, lots of windows, a stove in the centre for heat, a water pump and outdoor toilets.  It was 2 room, but during WWII was reduced to one to keep the costs down of hiring another teacher.

On one memorable day, students were allowed out to the yard to watch the Hindenburg fly over.  After the 1920’s school enrollment began to decline. 

Some of the teachers were George W. Brownell, Joseph Howe Brownell, Ada Brander, Catherine Lloyd, Annie Peacock, Helen Fisher, Mr. Cameron, Lily Black, Hobart Peppard, and Lily Wood.

Church

The Covenanters was the main religion of the first settlers.  This religion came from Ireland with the settlers and was reform Presbyterian.  Covenanters did not vote, participate in community affairs, or play instruments.  Their first meetings were held in William Brownell’s barn.  There is more about them and their leaders in the Linden section of this web page as the two congregations were as one.  Sandy Angus gave land to the Covenanters to build their church in Linden.  It was disbanded by 1880, but the cemetery is still in use.

Land was donated for the Presbyterian church by Henry Angus.  In 1904 the Presbyterians bought land from Jacob Brown to build a manse.  St. Paul’s Presbyterian Church was opened in 1904 with the Rev. Arthur F. Fisher was its first minister.  He served until 1911.  He built the pulpit and the ornate hand carved chairs.  It became St. Paul’s United Church in 1925; other ministers included Rev. Joseph Howe Brownell, McD. Clarke, D.M. Sinclair, L. W. Parker, Burns, J. C. Mortimer and Rev. Loring.  It was the centre of the community, but was decommissioned in 1964. 

Post Office

The first to run the post office was Jane Aiken Burns in her hotel until 1900, then George M. Brander in his store until 1910.  He sold his store to John O. Black who kept the post office until 1915.  It then moved to Ferguson Brownell’s store.  From 1919 to 1926 Lorne Chapman had Davey Mitchell run it.  From 1926 to 1930 Elmer Bryson had it and then Col. William Letcher.  Mail came by Mail Boat until the 1920s when it was brought from Amherst and Pugwash first by horse and carriage and then by car.  The mail carriers were Hal Jodrey, Murray Fisher, Fred Ackles, Arnold and Doug Baxter and Frank Pipes.

Stores

In the early days, there were three stores: James Harvey Brownell’s was near the bridge – he sold out in 1911.  George Brander’s store was near the end of Shinimicas Road. Ferguson Brownell sold his store by the bridge to Lorne Chapman, then William Letcher and finally Edison Brownell.  It closed in the late 1950’s. Other storekeepers were Thomas Houston Brownell (his burned in 1932), John O. Black and William Renwick Brownell.

Blacksmiths

George M. Brander, Jacob Brown and James Harvey Brownell were some of the early blacksmiths.  John O. Black had a blacksmith shop on the bottom floor of a building and a boat store on the top.  Elmer Brown had a shop.  Bickford Patton owned his own shop as did Boyd S. Peacock.

Shipping

Initially, wood was built into rafts, floated out to waiting ships, and taken apart piece by piece as the logs were loaded onto ships through the portholes.  Many ships were tied up at one time. Later, a slab wharf was constructed on the inland side of the bridge for the smaller schooners. In 1930, the present wharf was built. With the advent of the motor car, the need for shipping declined rapidly.

Some of the local citizens who were captains of ships were James Harvey Brownell, Jacob Pollard, W. M. Snow, Willard Van Ember, J. Olsen, Samuel Nyland, William Pipes, Robert Van Ember, and Steven Van Ember.

Milling

Saw mills lined the rivers and the streams of Northport.  Men who worked in the mills in the summer often logged in the winter.   In 1881, the Government sent an inspector to report on the fish population in the rivers of Nova Scotia.  His report of the Shinimicas paints a less than idyllic but typical for the day picture - a dirty river, choked with the garbage of the mills.

I visited this day the Shinimicas River with the warden Thomas R. Smith first inspecting the dam of Timothy Brownell’s mill at the tide way.  The ladder which was formerly erected here has been carried away and never rebuilt.  Rubbish from the upper portion of the river blocks up the pond and jams the stream all about the mill.  Salmon are reported almost extinct, but gasperaux in small numbers still come as far as the mill and unable to proceed further are forced to spawn in the brackish waters.  Ascending for 2 miles I reach a grist mill with a 10 foot dam belonging to Samuel Somers.  Great quantities of shells of buckwheat are thrown in from this establishment and thicken the water everywhere . . . fish dread this material more than they do sawdust.  Within 2 miles of this, Messrs. Smith Bros. and Messrs. Mathewson & Dickie have each built their sawmills with 12 or 13 feet dams and Smith and Doyle’s 3 miles above is about 10 feet in height.  He goes on to mention the mills of George Gilroy, Robert Morris, John Beherrel, Findlay, and J. Smith.  All of these are basically “doing much injury” and choking off any chance that the fish have of spawning.

Around 1900 Clark Burns owned and operated a saw mill just above the bridge.  Hibbert Oulton had one as did Thomas Bliss Brownell.  Arthur Burns owned and operated sawmills in the village.  By the 1920’s the four main mills were those of Clarke Burns, Artie Burns, Dixon and Arthur Pipes and Bliss Brownell’s.

Fishing

This was always an important part of village life.  Walter Sherwood Ackles had a factory at the turn of the century.  Nearby was a cook house.  Lorne B. Chapman sold his store and built fish factories and a lobster packing plant across the bridge on Sand Point.  He also owned cook houses and smoke houses on the beach.  Josh Allen had a fish factory and packing plant before he moved to Pugwash to open a cannery.  Job Monsel Trenholm had a lobster factory on the river side of the bridge near the Clark Burns saw mill.

The smaller fish factories started to close in the 1930’s and by 1940, there were no smokehouses operating in Northport. 

PUGWASH

 

70 Water Street: The Clarke House

 

The Clarke House is on lot 103 of the original Black plan of Pugwash. A deed, signed by John and Sarah Black, shows that the land was purchased on Jan. 19, 1847 for 30 pounds by Dr. Joseph Clarke, a physician. The lot was on Water Street starting at Victoria Street and running east 85 feet and south 85 feet.

 

Joseph built a house which he named Napoleon’s Cottage. It also served as his office and his dispensary. In 1854, he also bought lot 106 for 80 pounds. That was on the corner of Water and Durham Street. He sold that land in 1873 to William Henry Brown for $364.00, and it eventually became the war memorial.

 

Dr. Joseph Clarke was born in Kilkenny, Ireland. He emigrated as a young physician and dentist to Nova Scotia. This was unusual as many Irish immigrants were coming to the area, but few were educated. He married Olivia King (Mar. 30, 1827 – Feb. 28, 1910), daughter of Lavina Pineo and Oliver King in about 1850. In 1853, their first child, Cyrilla Clarke (1853 – 1938) was born. She was followed three years later by brother William (1856 – 1882). Child 3, Joseph Holmes Clarke (1860 – 1938) followed soon after being born in 1860. Their newly built house was on Water Street, and Joseph was a successful physician with three children. He practiced out of his house, and it served also as his dispensary.

 

In the 1861 census, he was in a household of 8 in Pugwash, 5 males and 3 females. That same year, Dr. Joseph had a schooner built in Wallace, The Janet. Unfortunately, it sank in the Gulf of St. Lawrence in 1862. In the 1864 Hutchinson’s Directory, Joseph is listed as a physician and dentist. In the 1871 census, the family of 5 are in Pugwash and living with them are Hiram and Clara Huston. Hiram was an engineer at a steam mill. Servant Maggie Satoris is with them as was a sailor, Joseph Akerly.

 

Daughter Cyrilla married Edgar Augustus Elliott in 1874 in Amherst. Dr. Joseph Clarke was obviously a man of some influence and service to the village. On August 27, 1857, he was appointed coroner for Cumberland County. He held other offices for the village. In 1858, he was an assessor. In 1858 - 60, he served as commissioner of streets. In 1870 and 1875, he was one of three school trustees. In 1871, he was an overseer of the poor. In 1872, he and Dr. Creed participated in the examination of Mr. Macaulay’s 103 students. In 1877, he had a meeting with the premier to change the route of the Northern Light which went to PEI through Pictou. He successfully pressed for it to be changed to going from Pugwash to Victoria instead.

 

The Christian Messenger reported that on Jan. 25, 1880, Dr. Clarke, just before retiring, went into his surgery to get some medicine and made a mistake, taking carbolic acid instead of the preparation he intended to take. Before he had drank the whole dose he discovered his mistake and told his wife that he was poisoned and had only a few minutes to live. Dr. Dakin, who lived just across the street, was at once called and used all possible remedies, but Clarke died in half an hour. The Miramichi Advance added that he had not been well for some time. Dr. Creed and Dr. Mackintosh also arrived but Dr. Clarke was speechless and could only wave his hand to indicate that there was nothing to be done. Reports of his death showed that the deceased had been in practice for a great number of years and had been particularly successful in the treatment of diphtheria. He practiced out of his house, but he also was said to travel into the countryside regardless of weather. He was buried in Palmerston Cemetery.

 

The appraisal of Joseph’s estate showed 3 pieces of real estate – 17 acres of land on Irishtown Road, 1 lot in Pugwash of 80 feet x 80 feet with a house and a barn, and a farm of 150 acres where Thomas Sarson was residing. The lot in Pugwash and the furniture was deeded to Augusta and Cyrilla including the portion owned by son Joseph Holmes. JH relinquished all right to his portion of that land and deeded it to his mother and sister. By the 1881 census, Olivia was a widow. She was living with her daughter Cyrilla Elliott, also a widow, sons William and Joseph Clarke and Cyrilla’s children Daisy and Pearl. In 1891, she was still in her house in Pugwash with Cyrilla, Daisy and Edmund as well as lodgers John Seaman and William Morgan.

 

Olivia was burned out twice. On July 25, 1898, a raging fire struck the Durham Street area. Winds fanned the flames and without a fire department, eighteen families were rendered homeless. Olivia’s house was completely lost along with 17 other properties, including the house and barn of her son, Joseph Holmes Clarke. In 1899, Olivia was rebuilding on the site of her former residence at 70 Water Street. In 1899, Joseph’s daughter Cyrilla married again to Clarence Edward Reed a sea captain in Pictou. Cyrilla’s son Edmund Pearl married Hattie M. Hay that same year in Truro. Her daughter Daisy Elliott married Stephen Percival Wilson also in 1899. Joseph’s brother William had died without having children. In the 1901 census, Olivia is living alone. On Sept. 10, 1901, the Clark house was again damaged by fire resulting from thieves blowing up the safe in Brown’s store which was adjacent. The house caught on fire several times, but was saved by the people. The town had no fire department. Finally, on Nov. 11, 1901, was a large fire that almost wiped out the town of Pugwash. Olivia’s damage was recorded as $1500 for loss of house and furniture. As the winter coal and vegetables had been laid in, the damage was even greater.

 

Olivia had to build again. By January of 1902, they had decided to also build a meat market on the property. This structure was right next door to the house she was also building, the house that is there now. Olivia died on Feb. 28, 1910, of softening of the brain and exhaustion. She is buried in Willow Grove Cemetery. She was C of E. This is interesting because son, Joseph Holmes Clarke and family were RC.

 

In 1911, according to the census, Cyrilla and Edward Reed were living alone in the house.

 

Cyrilla’s brother, Joseph Holmes Clarke (April 8, 1860 – Jan. 13, 1938) was initially employed as a bookkeeper and auctioneer. In 1879, Joseph was a surveyor of lumber. He married Agustia (Gussie) Adilea Walsh (Mar. 17, 1866 -   ) on July 16, 1886 in Pugwash. In 1898, when he was a general merchant, they lived in Pugwash. Their house was burned in 1898, with the loss being assessed at $800 and insurance at $300. In 1901 they were in Pugwash with children Adilea, Joseph and Alexander. They were Roman Catholic. He was a general merchant and also a surveyor of lumber. In 1915, a poem of his was published in Moncton called “Home is home where ere it be”. In 1920 he was a fence viewer. This was a municipal post. He became very active in municipal government, receiving appointment as stripendiary magistrate at Pugwash, acting periodically as returning officer for municipal elections and even running as an unsuccessful Liberal candidate for a seat on County Council in 1922. In 1927, he was a Customs Collector. He also worked for a time as a conductor for the railway out west and as the station agent and telegrapher in Pugwash Junction.

 

In 1911, Joseph, Gussie and the children are all in Pugwash. In 1916, Joseph Holmes is living in a hotel in Cochrane, Ontario working for the railway according to his son’s attestation papers. In 1921 Joseph and Gussie are in Pugwash with son Joseph V. In 1931, they are in Pugwash with Daisy Wilson who is listed as their boarder. She was Joseph’s niece. Joseph was a judge by then. Joseph Holmes and Gussie’s eldest daughter, Adilea Mary Clarke (May 6, 1888 - ) became a teacher. When she retired, she moved into the Clarke house. After Adelia died, the house was empty for some time.

 

JH’s second child, Joseph Valentine Clarke (Feb. 14, 1890 [1901 Census] - ) joined up for WWI in March 1916 from Winnipeg where he was a switchman. He was hit by a bullet on Vimy Ridge, and his right arm was amputated. After his return to Canada, he married Jean Elizabeth Thompson on Sept. 14, 1921. She died, and he married Christina Williams in May of 1928. Chrissy renovated the family house and she and Joseph moved in.

 

He was an insurance agent for 40 years and sold his business in 1969. Jophie and Chrissie’s second child was Joseph. Another child was Marion Clarke who won a beauty contest and from that was offered a contract by the CBC in 1953 to work in television. She gave up her career as host of The Saturday Show in 1957 to marry Darroch MacGillivray. Their third child, Alexander Bernard Clarke (Jan. 31, 1892 – June 13, 1953) also enlisted in 1914. At Ypres, he was wounded and taken prisoner. His leg was amputated. He was returned to Canada in 1917. He married Marie Clarisse Cantin in Calgary and moved to BC. Joseph and Chrissy’s fourth child was James David Clarke. They had grandson Darren Clarke who wrote an article about spending his summers in Pugwash in the Clarke house. According to him, Joseph V. smoked and loved pipes and had a room in his house dedicated to pipes. When Joseph and Chrissie became older, they moved to a smaller house down Water Street. 

Darren Clarke was a grandson of Joseph and Gussy and son of James David Clarke..  He wrote excerpts from reminiscences for “The Left Field Lark” June 18, 2018 Travel section.

 

Sitting on my grandparents’ sun porch in a rain storm – Pugwash is a tiny little town of 784 that sits on the Northumberland Strait at the mouth of the Pugwash River. My grandparents’ house sat on the corner of the town’s main streets, Water Street and Victoria Street. The sunporch overlooked Water Street and wrapped around half of the length of the house that ran parallel to Victoria. The windows were weathered, vaguely distorting the outside world. If you were sitting in the front of the house, you could look across Water Street and see Pugwash bay, its clay-coloured beach just steps away.

 

Memories of visiting my Grandfather - . . . lounging in lawn chairs beneath the tree in my grandparents’ back yard listening to my grandfather regale me, indeed educate me, with war stories and tales of his time as a magistrate – good decisions, bad decisions, funny decisions, in his endeavour to provide justice, the people he met, the ones that surprised him, the ones he respected, the ones that let him down and beyond that his stories of long lost World War I battlefields, former boxing champions (Tommy Burns) and so much more.

 

My grandfather’s pipes – My dad’s dad had tons of smoking pipes varying from simple corn cob pipes to straightforward wood pipes with plastic ends to crazy cool wood ones, some with improbably intricate metal ends. We loved them. He had an entire room dedicated to his pipes.

 

On the porch -The guns I remember really, rifles which appeared to be circa World War One. There was tons of random stuff there: almanacs, nicnacks, magazines, pins, old metal lighters that didn’t work.

 

The village – memories of collecting bottle caps out front of the same corner store in Pugwash where you bought the little packages of seaweed to eat.

 

70 Water Street was bought by John Caraberis and Bonnie Wood in 1996. They rented it to Dale O’Hara and Erin Horton who turned it into a restaurant known as Walden Pond, named after the book which Dale had been reading. It was a successful business. The current kitchen was the kitchen of the restaurant; there were two rooms which are now the dining room and living room and an outdoor deck on the Victoria Street side. Reception was from Water Street and Dale and Erin lived upstairs. It was next sold to Peter Sietel who used it as a storehouse for antiques.

 

In 2025, it was again bought by John Caraberis and Bonnie Wood. They renovated: municipal water was connected, the foundation was fixed, there was some new wiring and plastering, new heat pumps and a new roof were installed, the sun porch was repaired and a new entrance from Victoria Street was built. , and it is currently being occupied by a family who are new to the area.

 

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