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Acadians of North Cumberland

The Acadian settlements in North Cumberland County extended through Malagash, North Wallace, Fox Harbour, Wallace Bay and as far west as Pugwash.  According to an 1802 map by surveyor William Baker, an old French house was still standing at what is now Pleasure Cove.  From Wallace Bay to the western end of the marsh, 576 acres were enclosed by dykes.  Eastward to the Livingstone Bridge, 477 acres of marsh were dyked while 250 acres of undyked marsh were used by the Acadians, making a total of 1303 acres of marshland used by them in this area.  At Fox Harbour a further 150 acres of reclaimed land have been identified.

Besides the dykes and marsh land, other remnants have been found.  A small one-storey building was found on the marsh near Dotten Island by early settlers who moved it upland.  It is thought to have been Acadian.  It was examined in 1982: the frame was hewed timber assembled in an unusual way.  The boards from the roof and walls had been sawed by a horse-powered up-and-down saw.  Each board width varied from 1/4 inch to 1 inch.  At Fox Harbour, the upper end of the creek was fed by a brook about 150 yards upstream from the highway.  It is believed that it was dammed to supply power to a grist mill and a saw mill.  It was an earthen dam with a clay core, and the excavation site for the earth was just above the dam.  There are several mill stones still on the site.  Other remnants such as depressions in fields similar to Acadian cellars near roads used by early settlers were found.  Apple orchards existed when the first English settlers came in 1811.  Places named from the earliest days are French spring and the French well.  Concentrations of shells have been found.  All this adds up to a sizeable community, large enough that 7 or 8 men were spared as military recruits in the January 1747 planned attack of the British at Grand Pre.  De Villiers, the officer leading the force, marched through Remsheg and picked up these recruits.  At Tatamagouche several others joined in.

In Malagash, two cannon balls were ploughed up - remnants of the Battle of Tatamagouche.  The massive dykes in that area near the mouth of the Dewar River were perhaps the ridge behind which the Indians took refuge.  There are no natural ridges nearby.

Excerpted from an article by Roy M. Kennedy of Tatamagouche

 

The Expulsion

 

On the shores of Wallace Bay, where two hundred years ago the Acadians had established a thriving settlement, the dykes alone still stand - a memorial to a vanished people.  Ice, storms, and the everlasting ebb and flow of the tides have torn gaps in their banks, and they no longer keep the sea from the marshlands they were built to protect, but here and there some sections are even yet unharmed and serviceable.  They stand defiantly, as though determined to forever perpetuate the melancholy tale of those who laboured on them in the long ago.

In building dykes the Acadians followed the custom of their ancestors in the lowlands of France.  They preferred to expend their energy in wresting marsh from the tides, rather than the clearing of upland.  This course had been followed everywhere they had settled in the new world, and apparently was quite successful as we know they were prosperous farmers.  Their system was in direct contrast to that of the Loyalists who followed them on Wallace Bay.  The Loyalists at once began to clear the upland.  One thing in common to both methods was the enormous amount of work involved: to build dykes with the simple implements of the time, wooden shovels and ox-carts, or to clear away virgin forest for cropping meant a burden of toil we can scarcely appraise today.

A small number of Acadians were also located at the head of Fox Harbour, near where the United Church now stands.  There, too, the dykes still remain.  It is unlikely that more than two or three families had settled at this point, and they, doubtless, were considered a part of the larger colony on Wallace Bay.  With their scanty tools, they left behind evidence of a vast amount of labour invested in the mode of farming they fancied.  It was labour invested in an undertakiing that was destined to come to an abrupt and bitter end at a time when it was just beginning to repay in good measure.      

 

Many people believe the Expulsion of the Acadians began at Grand Pre.  However, the very first of the Acadians to be torn from their homes were taken from Tatamagouche and Wallace (at that time and until 1825 known as Remsheg or Ramshiek, replaced by Wallace in honour of Sir Michael Wallace).  It was another 3 weeks before Grand Pre was visited, but unlike the later incident when all the people were transported, only the adult males were carried off from these first villages to feel the blow.  Apparently the commander of the soldiers (Blue-coated New Englanders from Winslow’s Brigade) had no explicit orders as to the disposition of the women and children, and asked the Acadian men if they wished their families taken along or left where they were.  The reply was that they begged Captain Willard to permit the women folk and little ones to remain. The wish was granted.  No doubt the men hoped to eventually find their way back to homes and loved ones.  

It was Aug. 15, 1755, when Willard and his men made prisoners of all the grown men at Tatamagouche, and immediately this was accomplished two detachments hurried on to Remsheg.  Twenty men travelled overland, another twenty by canoe.  It is likely those who were sent by canoe went first to the tiny settlement at Fox Harbour and secured the men at that point, while the company who went by land probably followed the shore on reaching the bay making a circle around the head of the inlet and meeting with their fellows somewhere on the north side.

As they travelled they visited each home, their number increasing at every dwelling.  No record remains of what was done with the buildings at Remsheg, but at Tatamagouche all those in the village were put to the torch, only on the outlying, not readily accessible farms, were any left standing.  It seems reasonable to assume that at Remsheg the same course would be followed, and the houses and barn were heaps of glowing ashes before the day ended.

The settlement at Remsheg consisted of around a dozen families.  They had built themselves log homes and barns, dug wells, dyked and farmed large areas of marshland, and raised considerable numbers of cattle, sheep, swine and poultry.  And it was the produce of their farms which brought about their undoing, as it was all sent to Louisburg, a never sated market with its thousands of mouths to be fed daily.

 

For many years the Acadians had been urged to take an oath of allegiance to the British Crown but had always evaded the request or refused. They continued to send supplies to that thorn in the British Flesh, Louisburg.  Neither persuasion, threat or vigilance had sufficed to stop the forbidden traffic.  Of special annoyance was Tatamagouche and the other settlements thereabout because through their hands passed the produce from farms on the Bay of Fundy.  Unable to ship around Sable because of fear of interception by the British men of war, they shipped by way of Cobequid and Isgonish across country to Tatamagouche for shipping by water over a much safer route.  A situation such as this could not be tolerated and must be brought to an end.  Expulsion seemed a good solution to those authorities in closest proximity - the Governor of Massachusetts and the Governor of Nova Scotia.

The little settlement of Remsheg which had so painfully been wrested from the primeval during a period of over a quarter of a century came to a sudden, heart-wrenching end that August day of 1755.  It is not hard to imagine the scene - the stunned prisoners guarded by fixed bayonets, the weeping women with babes in their arms and toddlers clinging to their skirts, the reek of smoke, the roar of the flames, the hastily out-flung heaps of chattels hurriedly gathered from the crude but comfortable homes.  The women and children were left behind to fend for themselves, and when in October the British finally sent a ship to gather them up, none were to be found.   Very likely, tidings of the affair had reached their countrymen on St. John’s Island, and these had come to their aid.  As the summer was hardly over, and hard winter at least two months off, it is safe to assume they did not perish.

Today, little remains to show where these first settlers lived, laboured and died.  Here and there in the woods, along the north shore of the bay, an old cellar is to be found, over which once rested an Acadian home.  On the cleared farmland not a trace of any sort is to be seen in vertification of their initial homesteading.  No burial ground can be found, and there would be some of their number die in the thirty-five years or more they spent alongside Baie Remsheg.  It is possible their dead were taken to Tatamagouche for interment in sacred soil at the Chapel there, for we know the Abbe le Loutre, that bitter enemy of the English, had a chapel built at that settlement and came often to visit his flock, at their wilderness parish. No doubt the people from Remsheg went, when conditions permitted, to attend mass as there appears to have been no place of worship in their own hamlet.

Fable has it that the gold accumulated from the sales of their produce in Louisburg is buried somewhere along the shore.  That could well be as they no doubt expected to be able to return and hid their wealth in safety against that day.  But they never did return, and if they buried their gold, it will probably remain undiscovered forever just where those unhappy souls hid it away.  The dykes alone carry the secret of their hiding place, and they will keep their counsel well.

And because it was one of the most outstanding though unhappy episodes in the long and colourful history of Nova Scotia and a tragedy beyond compare to those affected, it is perhaps not amiss to draw attention to a little-known fact - it was here at Tatamagouche and Remsheg that the Expulsion of the Acadians began.

Excerpted from an article by Francis W. Grant in The Oxford Journal of August 25, 1955

Aftermath of the Expulsion

In all, from Nova Scotia, over six thousand Acadians were deported in 1755.  They were "disposed" of along the Atlantic seaboard from Massachusetts southward.  Indeed there was scarcely a major seaport that did not receive its quota of exiles.

 

However, despite overwhelming odds, many Acadians escaped deportation.  Some survived in safe forest retreats and among friendly Indians. On October 7, 1755, from Fort Cumberland it was reported by Brigadier General Monckton that "86 Frenchmen got away by making a hole underground from the barracks.  It is the worse because they are all people whose wives were not come in."   It is only to be hoped that some of those were from North Cumberland.  Some grouped together, particularly in the Cape Sable area by ambushing search parties sent to get them and making the job impossible for the officer sent to round up the last of them.

 

Many who did go later returned to Nova Scotia.  Often the colonies to which they had been sent openly encouraged them to return.  Government in Nova Scotia changed and by 1764, it was legal for Acadians to return if they took an oath of allegiance.  From then it was a matter of migration back to Nova Scotia until by 1775, they could once again hold land legally.  Many returned to the land from which they had come, but none of the Acadians of North Cumberland County returned to their old settlements.

Excerpted from an article by William B. Hamilton  from The Quarterly of Canadian Studies, Volume 5, 1984

PUGWASH

 

70 Water Street: The Clarke House

 

The Clarke House is on lot 103 of the original Black plan of Pugwash. A deed, signed by John and Sarah Black, shows that the land was purchased on Jan. 19, 1847 for 30 pounds by Dr. Joseph Clarke, a physician. The lot was on Water Street starting at Victoria Street and running east 85 feet and south 85 feet.

 

Joseph built a house which he named Napoleon’s Cottage. It also served as his office and his dispensary. In 1854, he also bought lot 106 for 80 pounds. That was on the corner of Water and Durham Street. He sold that land in 1873 to William Henry Brown for $364.00, and it eventually became the war memorial.

 

Dr. Joseph Clarke was born in Kilkenny, Ireland. He emigrated as a young physician and dentist to Nova Scotia. This was unusual as many Irish immigrants were coming to the area, but few were educated. He married Olivia King (Mar. 30, 1827 – Feb. 28, 1910), daughter of Lavina Pineo and Oliver King in about 1850. In 1853, their first child, Cyrilla Clarke (1853 – 1938) was born. She was followed three years later by brother William (1856 – 1882). Child 3, Joseph Holmes Clarke (1860 – 1938) followed soon after being born in 1860. Their newly built house was on Water Street, and Joseph was a successful physician with three children. He practiced out of his house, and it served also as his dispensary.

 

In the 1861 census, he was in a household of 8 in Pugwash, 5 males and 3 females. That same year, Dr. Joseph had a schooner built in Wallace, The Janet. Unfortunately, it sank in the Gulf of St. Lawrence in 1862. In the 1864 Hutchinson’s Directory, Joseph is listed as a physician and dentist. In the 1871 census, the family of 5 are in Pugwash and living with them are Hiram and Clara Huston. Hiram was an engineer at a steam mill. Servant Maggie Satoris is with them as was a sailor, Joseph Akerly.

 

Daughter Cyrilla married Edgar Augustus Elliott in 1874 in Amherst. Dr. Joseph Clarke was obviously a man of some influence and service to the village. On August 27, 1857, he was appointed coroner for Cumberland County. He held other offices for the village. In 1858, he was an assessor. In 1858 - 60, he served as commissioner of streets. In 1870 and 1875, he was one of three school trustees. In 1871, he was an overseer of the poor. In 1872, he and Dr. Creed participated in the examination of Mr. Macaulay’s 103 students. In 1877, he had a meeting with the premier to change the route of the Northern Light which went to PEI through Pictou. He successfully pressed for it to be changed to going from Pugwash to Victoria instead.

 

The Christian Messenger reported that on Jan. 25, 1880, Dr. Clarke, just before retiring, went into his surgery to get some medicine and made a mistake, taking carbolic acid instead of the preparation he intended to take. Before he had drank the whole dose he discovered his mistake and told his wife that he was poisoned and had only a few minutes to live. Dr. Dakin, who lived just across the street, was at once called and used all possible remedies, but Clarke died in half an hour. The Miramichi Advance added that he had not been well for some time. Dr. Creed and Dr. Mackintosh also arrived but Dr. Clarke was speechless and could only wave his hand to indicate that there was nothing to be done. Reports of his death showed that the deceased had been in practice for a great number of years and had been particularly successful in the treatment of diphtheria. He practiced out of his house, but he also was said to travel into the countryside regardless of weather. He was buried in Palmerston Cemetery.

 

The appraisal of Joseph’s estate showed 3 pieces of real estate – 17 acres of land on Irishtown Road, 1 lot in Pugwash of 80 feet x 80 feet with a house and a barn, and a farm of 150 acres where Thomas Sarson was residing. The lot in Pugwash and the furniture was deeded to Augusta and Cyrilla including the portion owned by son Joseph Holmes. JH relinquished all right to his portion of that land and deeded it to his mother and sister. By the 1881 census, Olivia was a widow. She was living with her daughter Cyrilla Elliott, also a widow, sons William and Joseph Clarke and Cyrilla’s children Daisy and Pearl. In 1891, she was still in her house in Pugwash with Cyrilla, Daisy and Edmund as well as lodgers John Seaman and William Morgan.

 

Olivia was burned out twice. On July 25, 1898, a raging fire struck the Durham Street area. Winds fanned the flames and without a fire department, eighteen families were rendered homeless. Olivia’s house was completely lost along with 17 other properties, including the house and barn of her son, Joseph Holmes Clarke. In 1899, Olivia was rebuilding on the site of her former residence at 70 Water Street. In 1899, Joseph’s daughter Cyrilla married again to Clarence Edward Reed a sea captain in Pictou. Cyrilla’s son Edmund Pearl married Hattie M. Hay that same year in Truro. Her daughter Daisy Elliott married Stephen Percival Wilson also in 1899. Joseph’s brother William had died without having children. In the 1901 census, Olivia is living alone. On Sept. 10, 1901, the Clark house was again damaged by fire resulting from thieves blowing up the safe in Brown’s store which was adjacent. The house caught on fire several times, but was saved by the people. The town had no fire department. Finally, on Nov. 11, 1901, was a large fire that almost wiped out the town of Pugwash. Olivia’s damage was recorded as $1500 for loss of house and furniture. As the winter coal and vegetables had been laid in, the damage was even greater.

 

Olivia had to build again. By January of 1902, they had decided to also build a meat market on the property. This structure was right next door to the house she was also building, the house that is there now. Olivia died on Feb. 28, 1910, of softening of the brain and exhaustion. She is buried in Willow Grove Cemetery. She was C of E. This is interesting because son, Joseph Holmes Clarke and family were RC.

 

In 1911, according to the census, Cyrilla and Edward Reed were living alone in the house.

 

Cyrilla’s brother, Joseph Holmes Clarke (April 8, 1860 – Jan. 13, 1938) was initially employed as a bookkeeper and auctioneer. In 1879, Joseph was a surveyor of lumber. He married Agustia (Gussie) Adilea Walsh (Mar. 17, 1866 -   ) on July 16, 1886 in Pugwash. In 1898, when he was a general merchant, they lived in Pugwash. Their house was burned in 1898, with the loss being assessed at $800 and insurance at $300. In 1901 they were in Pugwash with children Adilea, Joseph and Alexander. They were Roman Catholic. He was a general merchant and also a surveyor of lumber. In 1915, a poem of his was published in Moncton called “Home is home where ere it be”. In 1920 he was a fence viewer. This was a municipal post. He became very active in municipal government, receiving appointment as stripendiary magistrate at Pugwash, acting periodically as returning officer for municipal elections and even running as an unsuccessful Liberal candidate for a seat on County Council in 1922. In 1927, he was a Customs Collector. He also worked for a time as a conductor for the railway out west and as the station agent and telegrapher in Pugwash Junction.

 

In 1911, Joseph, Gussie and the children are all in Pugwash. In 1916, Joseph Holmes is living in a hotel in Cochrane, Ontario working for the railway according to his son’s attestation papers. In 1921 Joseph and Gussie are in Pugwash with son Joseph V. In 1931, they are in Pugwash with Daisy Wilson who is listed as their boarder. She was Joseph’s niece. Joseph was a judge by then. Joseph Holmes and Gussie’s eldest daughter, Adilea Mary Clarke (May 6, 1888 - ) became a teacher. When she retired, she moved into the Clarke house. After Adelia died, the house was empty for some time.

 

JH’s second child, Joseph Valentine Clarke (Feb. 14, 1890 [1901 Census] - ) joined up for WWI in March 1916 from Winnipeg where he was a switchman. He was hit by a bullet on Vimy Ridge, and his right arm was amputated. After his return to Canada, he married Jean Elizabeth Thompson on Sept. 14, 1921. She died, and he married Christina Williams in May of 1928. Chrissy renovated the family house and she and Joseph moved in.

 

He was an insurance agent for 40 years and sold his business in 1969. Jophie and Chrissie’s second child was Joseph. Another child was Marion Clarke who won a beauty contest and from that was offered a contract by the CBC in 1953 to work in television. She gave up her career as host of The Saturday Show in 1957 to marry Darroch MacGillivray. Their third child, Alexander Bernard Clarke (Jan. 31, 1892 – June 13, 1953) also enlisted in 1914. At Ypres, he was wounded and taken prisoner. His leg was amputated. He was returned to Canada in 1917. He married Marie Clarisse Cantin in Calgary and moved to BC. Joseph and Chrissy’s fourth child was James David Clarke. They had grandson Darren Clarke who wrote an article about spending his summers in Pugwash in the Clarke house. According to him, Joseph V. smoked and loved pipes and had a room in his house dedicated to pipes. When Joseph and Chrissie became older, they moved to a smaller house down Water Street. 

Darren Clarke was a grandson of Joseph and Gussy and son of James David Clarke..  He wrote excerpts from reminiscences for “The Left Field Lark” June 18, 2018 Travel section.

 

Sitting on my grandparents’ sun porch in a rain storm – Pugwash is a tiny little town of 784 that sits on the Northumberland Strait at the mouth of the Pugwash River. My grandparents’ house sat on the corner of the town’s main streets, Water Street and Victoria Street. The sunporch overlooked Water Street and wrapped around half of the length of the house that ran parallel to Victoria. The windows were weathered, vaguely distorting the outside world. If you were sitting in the front of the house, you could look across Water Street and see Pugwash bay, its clay-coloured beach just steps away.

 

Memories of visiting my Grandfather - . . . lounging in lawn chairs beneath the tree in my grandparents’ back yard listening to my grandfather regale me, indeed educate me, with war stories and tales of his time as a magistrate – good decisions, bad decisions, funny decisions, in his endeavour to provide justice, the people he met, the ones that surprised him, the ones he respected, the ones that let him down and beyond that his stories of long lost World War I battlefields, former boxing champions (Tommy Burns) and so much more.

 

My grandfather’s pipes – My dad’s dad had tons of smoking pipes varying from simple corn cob pipes to straightforward wood pipes with plastic ends to crazy cool wood ones, some with improbably intricate metal ends. We loved them. He had an entire room dedicated to his pipes.

 

On the porch -The guns I remember really, rifles which appeared to be circa World War One. There was tons of random stuff there: almanacs, nicnacks, magazines, pins, old metal lighters that didn’t work.

 

The village – memories of collecting bottle caps out front of the same corner store in Pugwash where you bought the little packages of seaweed to eat.

 

70 Water Street was bought by John Caraberis and Bonnie Wood in 1996. They rented it to Dale O’Hara and Erin Horton who turned it into a restaurant known as Walden Pond, named after the book which Dale had been reading. It was a successful business. The current kitchen was the kitchen of the restaurant; there were two rooms which are now the dining room and living room and an outdoor deck on the Victoria Street side. Reception was from Water Street and Dale and Erin lived upstairs. It was next sold to Peter Sietel who used it as a storehouse for antiques.

 

In 2025, it was again bought by John Caraberis and Bonnie Wood. They renovated: municipal water was connected, the foundation was fixed, there was some new wiring and plastering, new heat pumps and a new roof were installed, the sun porch was repaired and a new entrance from Victoria Street was built. , and it is currently being occupied by a family who are new to the area.

 

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